- Time: 1:11:00
- Climbs: 5.6, (2x) 5.7’s, (3x) 5.8’s, (2x) 5.9’s
- Failed Attempts: (2x) 5.10’s
- Location: Bend Rock Gym
- Notable Climbs: Staggered Ladder (5.9), Reach for Each (5.9+), Lefty Loosie (5.10-), Snow Lily (5.10)
After having conquered “Reach for Each” on Saturday with the kids, I was confident in my route, and successfully climbed it on my first try today. Yay!
There were a few new routes in the South Gym, and I was excited to try them out. One of them was a green ladder-type climb “Staggered Ladder” (5.9), which I was able to scale pretty comfortably.
I then tried a 5.10- “Lefty Loosie”, which had this angled, ridged, log-like handhold about 2/3rds up. I wasn’t quite sure how to approach it (I now think coming from the top-side is smartest). But when I got to the next handhold, there was about a 2-3ft gap to the last few. I kept looking for ways to make the leap. But after about a minute of trying different approaches, my hands got tired and I came down.
In honor of my little girl, I tried “Snow Lily” (5.10) in the Main Gym. And again, I reached a point about 2/3rds up where I was stuck. This time I had lots of handholds, but they were all small and rounded, and I couldn’t get any kind of grip. After a few fumbles, I came down.
I didn’t want to overextend myself, as I strained my neck on Saturday doing my physical therapy exercises. But, I was happy to at least do a few solid climbs, and attempt the next logical step in my progression.
Takeaway: I watched a few super-experienced climbers practicing on lower-difficulty walls, up-and-down, up-and-down. And in watching them, I noticed how they brought their arms back and to their sides routinely to rest. As well, I saw that they weren’t always face-front to the wall. They were often shoulder-left, or shoulder-right, working on their footing. I paid attention to this, and on my last climb of the night (5.6), my arms were exhausted from three straight climbs. So, I decided to almost exclusively use my legs, and let my arms basically be for grabbing (not pulling). This felt much more comfortable, and less tiring.